Top 5 Highlights and Lowlights of the Balkans (Angie)

We spent a month travelling the Balkans on a road trip, doing a loop that started and ended in Thessaloniki, Greece. 

On the one hand, a month felt too long, as things like history and architecture started getting repetitive. On the other hand, we felt rushed through some places and felt we could've spent more time in them. I loved some parts, but didn't love other areas as much. Here are my highlights and lowlights!

My 5 Highlights of the Balkans

1. Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

This city was so unique, and so wonderful. I have never been to a city like this ever (and I've been to alot). With so much conflict and horrible events of the recent past, I wasn't sure what to expect. But you can really feel and see the multi-cultural, multi-religion make up of the city (Muslims from the Ottoman era, Catholic Croats, and Orthodox Christian Serbs). This may be the only place I've been to where I've heard (Catholic) church bells ringing, right before the call of prayer from multiple mosques around town, where there's also a Jewish synagogue a few doors down. Where you see girls in half-tops and cut-off shorts walking alongside women in niqabs and full burkas. Where the old town is half Turkish Ottoman buildings, and half Venetian era architecture. 

The city was buzzing with tourists from all over the world. On our walking tour, we learned various eras of history here. And unfortunately, our guide spoke in hushed tones when speaking about the Seige of Sarajevo from the 1990s, as it was a sensitive topic to speak loudly about. But we met a friendly, knowledgeable guy at the Siege museum who we chatted with for a very long time (as the regional blackout happened while we were there), who explained things to us a lot more clearly (and he happened to have a Masters in History)! We also got more clarity on Bosnia history when we were in the town of Mostar a little while later on our trip.

This town also hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984, so we did learn that there are 3 ski hills in the area. Maybe we'll be back one day in the winter!

2. Rovinj, Croatia

This city was such a nice surprise for me! I had never heard of it, and took my friend Carla's lead on the whole Croatia itinerary. (Because it's tiring constantly researching, planning, and booking!). I loved the Venetian influence, all the restaurants and bars on the water and hidden in the narrow streets of the old town. I loved swimming in the sea at the footsteps of a Michelin Star restaurant. And then walking 1 km down and finding a Wibbit for the kids. I also loved our apartment in the old town that we had to drag our suitcases across cobblestone narrow roads to get to.

And maybe because it was the first town amongst this one, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik, and had zero expectations, it made it so charming!

3. Split and Dubrovnik, Croatia 

To put these towns on this list is so predictable. But to not put them on the list would be a miss. 

The thing I don't love about them is that they're very touristy and crowded, including big cruise ship groups that descend daily. 

But the beauty, the history, the preserved buildings and architecture that are woven into daily living -- it's quite incredible in both cities.

4. Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina 

A much smaller town and attraction than Sarajevo, but it deserves to see more tourists. It's inland in between Split and Dubrovnik and easily done as a day trip.

I loved the beauty of the old Ottoman city on the river, with its famous bridge (made extra famous by the Red Bull bridge jump competition, which we unfortunately did not see). And hearing the echos of the call to prayer down the river as the sun goes down. But I also loved learning and seeing so much "before and after" evidence of the 1990s war here. Outside the old town (the Stari Grad), sadly there are several half-destroyed buildings by bombs and/or gunfire, that haven't been fixed, re-built or torn down. A sad reminder of their recent past.

5. Rila Lakes, Bulgaria 

The hike through the 7 lakes, meadows and mountains was beautiful. But being in a small town, eating at a small local restaurant being the only tourists there... That was a highlight!

Other noteable highlights would be:

- Plovdiv, Bulgaria 

- Plitvice Lakes, Croatia 

My 5 Lowlights or Disappointments of the Balkans

1. Kraljevo, Serbia

We only drove through Serbia because we couldn't take our rental car through Kosovo. Looping up north to go through Serbia took longer, so we ended up spendin a night in Kraljevo -- a pretty small city in Serbia. We stopped in Nis on the way there, which had a few "tourist" sites (like the tower of skulls and the Nazi concentration camp museum), but Kraljevo was not at all a tourist destination. We didn't spend much time there, but we got a feel for life in Serbia staying in a "brutalism" former communist-era apartment building, walking around, and catching some soccer at a local pub. We didn't see a single other tourist there the entire time. It's not that it was an awful place. People were friendly enough, but it's not a place I would recommend going out of your way to make a stop at.

2. Shkoder, Albania

I've heard and seen pictures of the beautiful Adriatic coast of Albania, dubbed "Greece, but way cheaper". And I wish we had gone there. Alas, another time. But we stopped in a city called Shkoder instead, which wasn't all that exciting or dynamic. We may have been tired of the Balkans by this point on our road trip, and felt like it was all getting similar. Simone was feeling sick, so I stayed in with the kids and only Dave did the free walking tour. He usually loves those, but even he said this one wasn't that great. 

This country has the same multi-cultural and multi-religion make-up as Bosnia & Herzegovina, but it didn't have the same dynamic, exciting and passionate feel that Sarajevo had at all. 

3. Cevapi: Salty sausage meat

This seems to be at the top of the list of most Balkan country's traditional foods. They all tell you to try it. Maybe it's because back at home, I was eating 80% vegetarian... but even after trying some of the "best" in a few cities, it really is not for my pallette. It was always too salty and very simple. 

4. Thessaloniki, Greece

If you count Greece as part of the Balkans, this city unfortunately, did not jive with me. I loved Athens, but this city didn't have the same energy. Outside the city, Pella was also not super exciting. The Edessa waterfalls were cool, and more beautiful than I had thought, but not really a reason to go to Northern Greece.

5. Sofia, Bulgaria

Not a huge lowlight, but not really a highlight either. After having spent a few days in the charming town of Plovdiv, when we came to Sofia, it was a little more dry and disappointing. Not as much charm or positive energy as Plovdiv. It's a done place to base yourself to access Plovdiv and Rila Lakes, and there's plenty to do and see there. It just wasn't my favorite place in Bulgaria.